Bath Bomb Making: Fizzing Rounds From Your Own Kitchen

Bath Bomb Making: Fizzing Rounds From Your Own Kitchen

DariaCurated by Daria
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A Tiny Volcano You Can Drop in the Bath

A bath bomb is just two kitchen powders squashed into a ball that does absolutely nothing until it gets wet. Drop it in the tub and the baking soda and citric acid finally react, fizzing the whole thing away over a few minutes as it gives off carbon dioxide. It's a surprisingly young idea: Mo Constantine, who went on to co-found a big British cosmetics chain, invented it in 1989 in her shed in Dorset after getting curious about fizzy antacid tablets, and she called her first ones Aqua Sizzlers, pressed into whatever jelly moulds she could find. Today people make them at kitchen tables, often with small kids helping. Plenty get sold online.

Here's what surprises people who've looked into soap: there's no lye and no weeks of curing. If making cold process soap from oil and lye felt like a lot of chemistry homework, this is the relaxed cousin. The catch is moisture. The reaction you want in the tub will happily start in your mixing bowl if the mix gets even slightly too wet, and that's behind most of the crumbly, lumpy first batches people post asking for help.

Start small. Baking soda, citric acid, a splash of oil and one decent mold will make your first batch, and everything else can wait until you've felt how the mix is meant to sit in your hand.

Every pick below is the plain, cheap version of the thing, and the bags are big enough that a failed batch or two won't sting.

One honest warning before you shop: your first batch probably won't be perfect, and that's normal. The mix goes from too dry to too wet with a single spritz too many, and you only learn the difference by feel. Kids love the packing part. Squashing damp powder into a mold is basically building a sandcastle.

Four Things Between You and a Fizzing Tub

The whole base is a ratio: two parts baking soda to one part citric acid. You'll see it written as a cup to half a cup, or 600 g to 300 g if you weigh things, and it's the backbone of almost every recipe makers swap with each other. Oil comes next. It's what makes the bath feel soft rather than just fizzy, and it's where the scent goes. My advice is to skip the ten-ingredient recipes for now, because when one of those crumbles you've got no idea which ingredient caused it. Work somewhere dry, well away from the kettle and a steamy bathroom; if you're already setting up a craft corner at home, this fits on one end of the table.

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pure baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) for the fizzing base

Pick 01 of 09

pure baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) for the fizzing base

Baking soda is the base half of the fizz and makes up the bulk of every bath bomb, about twice the amount of citric acid. Look for plain sodium bicarbonate with nothing added, in a bag big enough for several batches, since a single batch can use a cup. Keep the bag sealed, because old baking soda that has sat open gives a noticeably weaker fizz.

Why we picked this exact one: The Arm & Hammer 7 lb bag of pure baking soda is the same plain sodium bicarbonate most home makers already trust, with nothing mixed in. It holds a 4.8-star average across more than 12,000 reviews. Seven pounds is a lot for a hobby you're only trying, so reseal the bag tightly between batches.

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food-grade citric acid powder for the fizz reaction

Pick 02 of 09

food-grade citric acid powder for the fizz reaction

Citric acid is the acid half of the reaction and goes into the recipe at about half the amount of baking soda. It comes as a fine or granular white powder, and food grade is the sensible choice for something that ends up in a bath. Store it sealed and dry, because damp citric acid starts reacting before you want it to.

Why we picked this exact one: Plant Guru's 3 lb bag of food-grade citric acid is a plain, single-ingredient powder sold with bath bomb and soap makers in mind. It sits at 4.6 stars from over 1,700 reviews. Stock on this listing runs low at times, so check it's still available before you plan a batch around it.

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liquid fractionated coconut oil as the carrier oil

Pick 03 of 09

liquid fractionated coconut oil as the carrier oil

A small amount of carrier oil goes into every batch to soften the skin and carry the scent. Fractionated coconut oil stays liquid at room temperature, so there's no melting step, and it has no smell of its own to fight with your fragrance. Keep the amount modest, since too much oil without an emulsifier floats on the bath water as a greasy film.

Why we picked this exact one: Handcraft Blends Fractionated Coconut Oil comes in a 16 oz bottle that will outlast a lot of batches, since each one needs only a spoonful or two. It's rated 4.6 stars across nearly 40,000 reviews. Being liquid, it pours straight in, though it won't give the extra hardness some makers get from solid butters.

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two-part stainless steel sphere molds for pressing bath bombs

Pick 04 of 09

two-part stainless steel sphere molds for pressing bath bombs

Round bath bomb molds come as two half-spheres that you overfill, press together and then tap to release the ball. Stainless steel is worth choosing over thin aluminium, because you can knock it firmly to free a stuck bomb without denting the rim. A set with two sizes lets you practise on smaller ones while you learn how hard your mix needs pressing.

Why we picked this exact one: TengRui's 304 stainless steel set gives you four molds in two sizes, and the larger ones have a latch that keeps the halves lined up while you press. It's a newer listing with only a handful of reviews, averaging 4.5 stars, and it costs more than the common aluminium sets. I'd still take it, because stainless shrugs off a firm tap from the back of a spoon.

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With these four you can make a batch this afternoon. The finished mix should feel like damp sand that keeps the print of your fingers when you squeeze it, and it'll smell faintly sharp and lemony from the acid. Pack each half of the mold overfull and press them together hard. Then tap it loose. If you'd like something even more forgiving to start with, melt-and-pour soap bars take the same afternoon with no moisture guessing at all.

Moisture Control, Then Color

Most of this section is about one thing: getting just enough liquid into the mix without starting the fizz. Plain water sets it off fastest, which is why lots of makers spritz witch hazel or strong rubbing alcohol instead. The sprayer matters more than you'd think. A coarse squirt lands as one wet patch that starts hissing, while a fine mist spreads out and disappears as you stir. Color comes second, and it's where beginners overspend: a bright bomb doesn't guarantee bright bath water, and some colorants float or leave a ring unless there's an emulsifier in the mix. And on a muggy day none of it helps much, so a cheap humidity reader earns its spot.

plain witch hazel for spritzing the bath bomb mix

Pick 05 of 09

plain witch hazel for spritzing the bath bomb mix

Witch hazel is a watery plant extract that makers spray over the dry mix to dampen it just enough to hold together. It sets off far less fizz than plain water, so the mix stays calmer while you work. Choose a plain version rather than a facial toner blended with aloe or rose, since it goes straight into your recipe.

Why we picked this exact one: Swan Witch Hazel is a plain 16 oz bottle, not one of the toner versions blended with aloe or rose. It holds 4.7 stars from nearly a thousand reviews. It smells sharp when you spray it, but makers say the smell fades once the bombs dry.

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small fine-mist spray bottle for adding liquid a little at a time

Pick 06 of 09

small fine-mist spray bottle for adding liquid a little at a time

A small spray bottle lets you add liquid to the mix as a spread-out mist instead of a splash. The finer the spray, the less chance any one spot gets wet enough to start fizzing. A small size is easy to work with one hand while the other keeps stirring.

Why we picked this exact one: The Fantasea Fine Mist Spray Bottle, made by Burmax, holds 2.5 ounces, enough witch hazel for a couple of batches between refills. It's rated 4.5 stars by more than 3,400 buyers. It's a basic plastic bottle, so treat it as cheap and replaceable rather than a lifetime tool.

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skin-safe water-soluble liquid colorants for tinting bath bombs

Pick 07 of 09

skin-safe water-soluble liquid colorants for tinting bath bombs

Water-soluble colorants dissolve into the bath instead of floating on top or clinging to the tub. Liquid versions need no preparation and blend easily into custom shades. Add them a drop at a time along with the oil rather than straight onto the powder, because a drop of liquid can start the fizz where it lands.

Why we picked this exact one: Limino's 12-color bath bomb dye set is labeled skin safe and food grade, and its water-soluble liquid colors blend without any prep. It's rated 4.5 stars from more than 5,800 reviews. Liquid dyes like these tend to give pastel bath water rather than deep color, so expect pretty rather than vivid.

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polysorbate 80 emulsifier to keep oil and color off the tub

Pick 08 of 09

polysorbate 80 emulsifier to keep oil and color off the tub

Polysorbate 80 is an emulsifier, a thick liquid that lets oil disperse into bath water instead of sitting on top as a slick. A small amount goes in with the wet ingredients. Bath bomb makers use the 80 grade specifically, since the lighter 20 grade is too light for bombs.

Why we picked this exact one: velona Polysorbate 80 comes in a small 8 fl oz bottle, which is plenty when each batch needs only a little. It's rated 4.7 stars across nearly 3,000 reviews and is sold as food and cosmetic grade. It's thick and slow to pour, so measure it into the oil rather than onto the powder.

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digital indoor humidity monitor for checking your making room

Pick 09 of 09

digital indoor humidity monitor for checking your making room

A small digital hygrometer shows the relative humidity of the room you're working in. For bath bombs, that one number tells you whether today's air will let a batch set or make it puff and crumble. Put it where you mix and dry, not in another room.

Why we picked this exact one: The AcuRite 00325A2 is a simple display showing indoor temperature and humidity along with the day's highs and lows. It holds a 4.6-star average over more than 7,600 reviews. It won't dry the air for you, but it will tell you when to put the bowl away.

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None of this is needed for a first batch that fizzes. It's what you reach for once you've made a few and want them harder, brighter and more predictable. Scent needs the same restraint, because every fragrance or essential oil has a maximum safe amount. More isn't nicer. If you've got oils left over from making soy candles, check they're rated for skin before they go anywhere near a bath.

The Day Your Bath Bombs Grew Warts

Why are little bumps popping up on my bath bombs while they dry?

Those warts are the reaction starting early. It happens when a patch of the mix got too wet, the mold still had water in it after washing, or the room's air is damp, so the surface fizzes a little and swells. Once a bomb has puffed up you can't push it back. Next time, mist your liquid in while stirring hard, add the citric acid last, and dry the molds completely before you pack them.

It held together in my hand, so why did it crumble when I unmolded it?

It's usually too dry inside. The mix can feel fine on top while most of it is still loose powder, and a bomb made from that falls apart at the first tap. Squeeze a big handful and drop it back into the bowl from about a foot up: it should land in one piece. If it breaks, add liquid one fine spritz at a time and test again.

Why does the same recipe work one week and fail the next?

The recipe didn't change. The air did. Bath bombs pull moisture out of the room, so a mix that set rock hard on a dry day can crumble or puff up on a humid one, and experienced makers still hit days when nothing works. Plenty of them won't make a batch above about 40% relative humidity. On a damp day, swap some of your liquid for strong rubbing alcohol or simply wait for drier weather.

Should I add Epsom salt and cornstarch like so many recipes do?

Not at first. Epsom salt makes a bomb heavier and more likely to sink, some makers find it harder to dry, and you'd need a cup or two in the tub before it did anything for sore muscles. Cornstarch splits people too: some swear it helps a bomb keep its shape, others leave it out completely. Get the plain two-to-one base working first, then add one extra at a time so you can tell what it's doing.

Can I speed up drying in the oven?

It's tempting, and it's a common way to end up with a crack right through the middle. Makers blame the sudden change in moisture. Leave them on a tray in a dry room for a day or two instead. If your house is damp, running a dehumidifier in the room after you've finished packing does the same job more gently.

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